Frequently Asked Questions

1. How can I perform a heat cure? What happens if I don’t perform a heat cure when it’s recommended?
   

Begin by starting and maintaining a kindling, or small fire, and allow it to burn for one hour. After that hour has passed, gradually build the small fire up to a roaring fire (at least 500°F) and maintain the larger fire for an additional hour. The entire process should take approximately 2 ½ hours.
If a heat cure is required and is not performed within 21 days of application, the cement or mortar will become brittle, fragile, and chalky. It will eventually lose all adhesion, falling out over time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kDHsm0YYHk

2. What is a heat cure?

A heat cure is a necessary step to complete the adhesion process for most of our pre-mixed cements and mortars. It is the process of removing any remaining moisture from the applied product. The product label will indicate if a heat cure is required or not.

3. What is creosote? How is it different from soot?
   

Both are natural by-products from burning wood. Creosote originates from the smoke, and dries to a flaky, solid, or glazed form, and is extremely flammable. Soot is primarily composed of unburned carbon particles but also contains ash. The flammability of soot depends on the concentration of soot and ash. Although soot isn’t as hazardous as creosote, soot buildup will provide an attractive surface for creosote to adhere. A proper cleaning will remove creosote and soot from the system.  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rd2jVST8Lcc

4. How do I use creosote remover? How often should I use it?
   

Rutland creosote removers should be applied directly onto a bed of hot embers. As the creosote remover is completely incinerated, it will travel up the flue and convert the creosote buildup into a brushable ash. Generally, we recommend using Rutland creosote removers twice per week for the first month of the burn season, after which, feel free to scale back to one treatment per week. With that said, some systems are more efficient than others, and only burn well-seasoned wood. Such systems can use less creosote remover less frequently.

5. If I use creosote remover, do I still need to sweep my chimney?
   

Yes. Using creosote remover is only half of the battle. The goal is to remove all creosote from the system to keep the buildup from changing into stage 3 creosote, or glazed creosote. Creosote is a very serious fire hazard and should not be taken lightly. The ash left by the creosote removers can also build up and affect the efficiency of a stove or fireplace. A chimney flue should always be brushed to ensure safety and efficiency.

6. I think I have stage 3 creosote, or glazed creosote buildup. What should I do?

Contact a chimney professional immediately. Stage 3 creosote is extremely hazardous and should be removed as soon as possible. You can find a local, certified chimney sweep by visiting the Chimney Safety Institute of America at www.csia.org.

7. How do I pick the right gasket?

Begin by removing the old gasket and any residual gasket adhesive or cement from the gasket channel. Once the channel has been thoroughly cleaned, measure the width of the channel to have an idea of the proper gasket size. Look at the old gasket to check if it’s a flat gasket. If it is a flat gasket, measure the depth of the gasket channel as well. This should serve as a starting point when choosing the correct gasket for the appliance. The manufacturer may recommend a gasket size in the user’s manual or by contacting them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENTi36-KpY0

8. How do I pick the right chimney brush?

We recommend using poly brushes for metal flues and wire brushes in masonry flues. In terms of size, we recommend using the same size and shape of the inside dimensions of the chimney flue. A brush that is too large can get stuck in the chimney, while a brush that is too small will not clean effectively.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rrXelGzE98

9. I have a pellet stove. Which products should I be using? Which products should I NOT use?

Creosote Buildup: Pellet stoves generate heat by burning wood pellets. Although these wood pellets contain less moisture than typical seasoned wood, burning them will always result in creosote buildup. This creosote will need to be removed, however using a granulated/powder-like creosote remover are ineffective with pellet stoves and can potentially damage the stove. We recommend using Rutland Pellet Stove Creosote Remover, as this product consists of wood pellets that have been pre-treated with our creosote remover. Another option is to treat wood pellets manually by using our Liquid Creosote Remover.

Chimney Brushes: Pellet stove flues are more narrow than traditional chimney flues. After employing our Pellet Stove Creosote Remover, finish the task with a Rutland 3-, 4- or 5-inch Pellet Stove Brush, which will attach to our Flexible Poly Pellet Stove Rods. These brushes and rods have different threading and are much more flexible than traditional chimney brushing systems.

Heat Cures & Gasket Adhesion: It can be very difficult to properly perform a heat cure with a pellet stove. Because of this, avoid using any cement or mortar that requires a heat cure, which includes our gasket cements. Instead of using gasket cement to adhere the gasket, use Rutland High Heat Silicone Sealant, 600°F RTV.

Summary: Pellet stove owners should be using a special creosote remover, rods, and cements/mortars. Do not purchase any product that requires a heat cure, or any product that comes in a granular/powder-like form.

10. I have a gas appliance. Which products should I be using? Which products should I NOT use?
    

Cleaning Glass: The white residue by-product that accumulates on the glass is unique to gas-burning appliances. To remove this white residue effectively and safely, use Rutland White Off® Glass Cleaning Cream.

Cleaning Gas Logs & Soot: Since gas appliances don’t burn wood, there is no creosote buildup. However, the system will still accumulate soot over time. Avoid using granulated/powder-like soot remover, as these are ineffective with gas appliances and can damage the appliance. To properly clean the gas logs, try Rutland Log Bright® Gas Log Soot Remover (Not to be used on white birch or fiber gas logs).

Heat Cures & Gasket Adhesion: It can be very difficult to properly perform a heat cure with a gas appliance. Because of this, avoid using any cement or mortar that requires a heat cure, which includes our gasket cements. Instead of using gasket cement to adhere the gasket, use Rutland High Heat Silicone Sealant, 600°F RTV.

Summary: Gas appliance owners should be using a special glass cleaner, soot remover specifically for gas logs, and cements/mortars. Do not purchase any product that requires a heat cure, or any product that comes in a granular/powder-like form.

11. Can I paint the inside of my fireplace using Rutland paint?

Yes. It is the most common use of our paints. For spots that come into prolonged, direct contact with flames, it may blister and crack over time, as any high temperature paint would. It may need to be reapplied in these spots but nothing hazardous will occur. We recommend applying 2 coats with 1 hour of drying time after the 1^st coat, and 24 hours of drying time after the 2^nd coat.

12. Are Rutland products intended to come into contact with food?

Our products are not intended to come into direct contact with food.

13. Can I use Rutland fire starters to light my grill?

Yes. Our fire starter squares are safe to use in fires that are intended for cooking.

14. Which glass cleaner should I use?

For heavy buildup, we recommend Stove, Grill & Hearth Conditioning Glass Cleaner because the micro-scrubbers remove smoke, soot, baked-on creosote, carbon, and mineral residues on glass. It will also leave behind a thin layer of silicone, so that it won’t need to be cleaned as frequently. White Off® Glass Cleaning Cream is specially formulated to remove the white residue on glass doors caused by gas fireplaces. Both glass cleaners can be used in conjunction – keep in mind that using White Off® after the Conditioning Glass Cleaner will remove the thin layer of silicone.

15. I need a cement or mortar to adhere to metal but I can’t perform a heat cure. What should I do?

All cements and mortars that will adhere to metal require a heat cure. If a heat cure cannot be performed, then there may still be a solution:
Option 1: Use a cement or mortar that doesn’t require a heat cure, like Castable Refractory Cement, and then use a high temperature sealant, like our latex sealant, Seal It Right®, to adhere to the Castable Refractory Cement and to the metal. Keep in mind that Seal It Right’s heat rating is 800°F.

Option 2: If a heat rating of ~800°F isn’t needed, then a high temperature cement or mortar isn’t necessary. Our Seal It Right® Flexible Latex Sealant or our RTV Silicone Sealants will adhere and remain flexible, even outdoors.

16. Can I paint Rutland high temperature silicone after it dries?

No. Silicone cannot be painted. We have a similar product, Seal It Right® Flexible Latex Sealant, that can be painted once cured and boasts a heat rating of 800°F.

17. Which products can be used outdoors?

For cements and mortars, only Castable Refractory Cement can be used outdoors. As for our sealants, all of them are rated for outdoor use. Our paints and Fire Bricks can also be used outdoors.

18. Which products do I use to make an outdoor fire pit or pizza oven?

Use Rutland Castable Refractory Cement and Fire Bricks. Do not cook food directly on the Castable Refractory Cement or Fire Bricks. We recommend using a pizza stone for this.

19. Can I cook food over Rainbow Flames?
    

No. We do not recommend cooking over a fire that recently burned our Rainbow Flame product. Cook first, then enjoy beautiful rainbow flames.

20. How do I install the stove window gasket?

Begin by sticking the adhesive to the edge of the glass. The stove window gasket should be gripping or “hugging” both the interior and exterior sides of the glass, as it is placed into the brackets of the stove door. The adhesive is meant to eventually burn off but if installed correctly, the window and gasket will be firmly secured by the brackets of the stove door.

21. How can I find a Certified Chimney Sweep in my area?

Please visit the National Chimney Sweep Guild at www.ncsg.org or the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) at www.csia.org. These organizations train and certify professional chimney technicians. They also promote public awareness and education of fire safety.